Commercial Sod

If pet urine is causing constant trouble in your lawn, consider Micro Clover as an alternative. This variety is immune to pet urine, making it a great solution for pet owners. In addition to being resilient against urine, Micro Clover is pet-safe, can handle moderate foot traffic, and stays green throughout the year. It’s a durable, low-maintenance option for anyone looking for a beautiful lawn that stands up to the challenges of pet ownership.

Prone to attack lawns during the hot dry season. The size of the damaged areas of grass will typically be about the size of a silver dollar.

The blades of grass will have pale beige lesions with red-brown borders. A faint cobweb-type growth may be seen on the leaves. This is often more common when mowing is too frequent.

Summer can be brutal on plants here in the desert, and there are a number of challenges we can have with our lawns.

If there are signs of pests or disease you’ll need to know what you’re up against and deal with it. Yellowing patches will be one sign, but may only indicate a watering issue. Lawn fungus is common here and has many faces, so let’s look at that issue.

The leaves of the grass will have tan edges, and the patch size will be about 6 to 20 inches in diameter. Excessive nitrogen levels in the soil will contribute to the development of this disease as will night time watering. Proper cultural practices will generally prevent this from getting started in your lawn.

Before you mow again, please have the mower blades sharpened and make sure they are adjusted properly. Set the mower high so that you don’t cut more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at a time. Sure, you’ll be cutting a little more often, but grass can become stressed when too much is cut off at one time.

Cut about a third of the height each time. Cutting a lawn too short might look nice at the time, but then it requires more watering and feeding which requires more mowing- and so we go.

Fall is a good time to remove thatch buildup. If the thatch is 1/2 inch deep or more, it’s time to remove it. For a small lawn, a thatch rake might be the most convenient tool for removing it, but if you have a larger lawn you’ll likely want to get a de-thatching blade to put on your mower, or rent a dethatcher.

With this disease the spots turn from greasy to slimy before the grass dies out. This is the fungal disease that is easily spread by contaminated mowing equipment.

• Night watering is probably the most frequent cause of fungal disease on your lawn. Watering grass at night, when it releases oxygen and absorbs CO2, significantly increases the risk of disease.
• Grass clippings left on the lawn will harbor the growth of fungus and restrict oxygen reducing plant health.
• Over fertilization is another no-no. Moderation in all things is the old saying and it certainly applies here.
• Avoid cutting your lawn too short. This produces stress and the weakened turf will be more subject to disease.
• Do not fertilize your lawn if you think it may be infected- treat first! Chemical treatment is available for most types of grass fungus. You’ll find fungicide in nurseries in the chemical aisle. Follow the instructions on the label for the best results and safe application.

Nevada is classified as a Transition Zone because of its mild seasonal climate. Cool season grasses grow faster in the spring and fall and slow down in the summer/winter. Most people prefer the look of a green yard all year round without having to overseed. Fescue will stay green during the winter if properly fertilized before late fall. Bermuda goes dormant in the winter and requires an overseeding of rye grass to keep the yard green.

More than likely your sod will recover from dry edges. Sod needs to be installed so the edges are butted close together. Gaps will cause edges to dry out. Try to push sod pieces together to avoid gapping. Sod edges can dry out while sitting on the delivery pallet if not installed promptly. Weather and wind can also contribute to drying edges. Conscientious watering, time and patience should result in the regrowth of the damaged area.

It is recommended to use a starter fertilizer such as 16-16-16, 15-15-15, or 16-20-0 at the time of installation. Follow the directions on the bag for application rates. Use half the recommended amount on the soil before installation and the other half sprinkled on top of the grass after installation.

No, Fresh cut sod needs soil-to-soil contact. In other words, the existing sod or dead grass must be removed first. Sod roots must be in contact with soil or they will dry out. Level out soil where the old sod has been removed, add 2″ of top soil to cover the old grass and soil amendments as recommended in our installation instructions, dampen the soil, sprinkle 16-20-0 fertilizer and then lay sod on top soil. Make sure there is soil-to-soil contact. Please note that if sod is laid over Bermuda grass it must be killed off entirely or there will be regrowth of the Bermuda in warm weather.

WATER! Either too little or too much water is the most common mistake that homeowners make when watering their newly installed lawn. Too little water will cause the sod to dry out and stress. Too much water can be worse over time causing roots to rot and sod to die. Watering schedules and times need to be adjusted to the time of year on established turf to keep it healthy.

As the grass is growing on top, the roots are growing on the bottom. Gently tug on the sod to see if it has rooted. This normally takes about two weeks. Do not let the grass get too long before mowing. Long grass can block sprinkler heads and create watering problems. Keep grass blades slightly longer in summer to shade roots.

Yes, aerating is beneficial to keep your lawn healthy. Do this during the spring or fall when it is cooler approximately every 3-5 years depending on your lawns’ condition. If your grass gets a lot of traffic you may need to do it more frequently.